On 15 September 2023 we completed our longest passage to date, a 4-day sail from Nazaré on the Portuguese west coast to Porto Santo in the Madeira archipelago. Life on passage is a mixture of inactivity and constant activity. The boat is in continuous motion, it rolls from side to side or up and down or both; making everyday tasks like cooking and eating a challenge. It is hard to sit still when the waves roll from side to side, you have to brace yourself against something to keep from pitching across the cockpit. It also means that you don’t do anything unnecessary, which in my case includes reading anything, because it makes me seasick. Lots of time to just enjoy the sea, look at stars at night and watch for dolphins and other sea life during the day.
Lulu has a great quarter berth which is perfect for sleeping under passage, pictured above. There is a pulley which can lift the side of the bed, so that you lie in a little wedge between two raised sides. It means that you can sleep without rolling with the boat, which is a great help. You still feel the slight lift and roll, however; sometimes the waves can pitch the boat pretty far over. When we are on passage someone is always on watch, so we take turns using the bed. The quarter berth is next to the motor, so it can get warm and loud despite thick insulation if we are going by motor, but I have learned that if I am tired enough, I can sleep through the motor.
There is also a traditional lee-cloth under the sofa on the port side, so that if necessary we can sleep two of us at the same time without rolling out. Hopefully we will never need to use both beds, but also nice that there is an alternative sleeping place. I have tried sleeping in the forepeak in calmer waters, but the nose of the boat pitches up and down so that even in calm waters it is easy to catch air and actually lift off the mattress; so no sleeping up front during passage.
We have been using a rotating 3-hour sleep schedule, which works for us (everyone has to figure out what is best for them). Starting from 9pm, one of us is on duty and one is sleeping, until 9am the next morning. After that, we take short naps during the day and take turns watching for hazards like other boats or fishing nets.
Now that we have completed a longer passage, the upcoming passage in November-December across the Atlantic, which will take approximately 3 and a half weeks, feels less daunting.
Hi Jodi, just read your last entry. I would not last a day. I get sea sick easily and would be throwing up constantly. I admire you for taking this adventurous trip. Take care and hope you can get lots of sleep after your voyage is over.
Hi! Thank you! I do get seasick, but it gets better and there are calm days with wonderful sailing. Then we are spending more time on land and less at sea as we explore our new destinations – worth a bit of discomfort!